After buying the floor lighting kit you will need to also purchase a roll of 20 gauge wire and a pack of at least 5 (2 for just in case measures) heat shrink 22-16 gauge Butt Connectors. I picked up this three color 20' package and Butt Connectors from Radio shack. Also if you don't have one already, a step drill bit capable of drilling a 5/8" hole along with a drill of course

Now for the deconstruction phase. You will need to remove the rear bench seat (lift up on the front and then pull out), pull up all four door sills (not the kick plates with the Subaru nameplate) and be careful not to tear the rubber trim piece

Remove the front passenger and driver side kickplates; these are a bit tricky as they are snapped into the front door sills so don't force them out, peel them back after removing the pop clip and you can then slide them off.

Next you will want to remove the passenger-side A pillar trim piece. At this point I would recommend taking a deep breath as mine were a royal PITA to remove. There is only one pop clip but there is a metal clip that takes some finagling and finesse. Then remove the under dash covers by removing the pop clips and sliding the pieces off.

Now you will want to look at the bundle of wires running the length of the passenger side A pillar. *Word of Caution* There are air bag wires in this bundle DO NOT CLIP THE YELLOW WIRES!!!!! At this point it would also help to disconnect the positive terminal from your battery. There will be a black ground wire with silver spots, a brown wire with silver spots, and a blue wire with a red stripe and silver spots. NOTE: make sure you double check the colors of these wires by removing your dome lamp and verifying the three wires leading into your dome lamp match the three wires in the A pillar wire bundle!

Use a coat hanger or a solid core wire to fish a thru wire down behind the dash following the A pillar so that it comes out by the kick plate previously removed (there should be a few wire bundles you can use for guidance). Cut approximate 5' of each of the color coded wire and use the supplied vampire clamps to tap into the three wires. It helps to match colors
Black is GROUND
Blue with red stripe is BATTERY
Brown is GROUND SWITCH*
After clamped down, wrap with electrical tape and it should look something like this:

Now using your thru wire/coat hanger, attach the end of the three wires to your thru wire and pull them through the hole. Next, you will connect your three wires to the three wires that lead into the timer unit by crimping and then heat shrinking your butt connectors.
Black is GROUND
Red is BATTERY
Red with white stripe is GROUND SWITCH

Now you will want to route the LED lines under the door sills following the larger wire bundles and send your driver side lines through the center console passing in front of the airbag control unit (NOTE: For 5MT and 6MT remove plastic trim piece around shifter; for 5EAT remove plastic trim piece around shifter unit in order to route lines) and carry along with larger wire bundles to drivers kick panel then running under door sill with larger wire bundle. The kit comes with quite a few zip ties and if your instructions come in English it will help A LOT. Mine were in Japanese and I had to do quite a bit of guess work




Now comes the fun part


NOTE: On the under dash covers there is insulation that I pulled back in order to drill the holes. After I installed the LED units I cut a hole in the insulation with a razor blade and fished the wire through. Afterward, I used Goop to glue the insulation back to the under covers at the same glue spots from factory.

As a final check, plug all the LED units in, reconnect the positive terminal of the battery, and (given one of your doors are open) voila! Your LED's will light up anytime one of the doors are opened
After confirming all the LED's function properly, put all the trim pieces back together in the reverse order they were removed and enjoy your new floor lights!

This has been Trunk Monkey approved

