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PASTY T-BAG
01-07-2012, 11:03 AM
my question is simple what oil and oil filter to you use in your car? I have an 06 sti and was debating on which oil and oil filter is best for my car? what would you suggest?

20sti05
01-07-2012, 11:29 AM
well its all personal opinion, IMO. a lot of people on here are running Rotella 10w 40 syn. i was running Royal Purple 5w 30 in my Sti but im about to switch to Rotella because of new engine build. you can get Rotella at Walmart so its pretty easy to get.

oil filters- i was running the K&N oil filter(which is like $15)kinda expensive. but since im about to have a new motor i ordered a 6pack subaru oil filters from http://www.fredbeansparts.com/

Justin 05 Sti
01-07-2012, 11:37 AM
Amsoil 5w-40 and Purolator Pure One filter.

Before that I ran conventional Valvoline with the same filter. Only reason I switched is I started running Amsoil in my truck.

tyranosaurs-WRX
01-07-2012, 11:39 AM
you'll find that most of the guys on here use amsoil. it is by far one of the best performing oils out there and it's not any more expensive than its competitors. I have done a lot of research on oils (after I blew my first wrx engine I wanted to be sure I did everything I could to not do it again) and I found a lot of disturbing things out about the more well known oils. again amsoil is great I would recommend it to anyone the only reason I don't use it is because It isn't readily available anywhere so you have to buy it in bulk basically. I use Castrol syntec edge titanium. It has 90% the breakdown rate amsoil does throughout the temperature ranges, its the same price, and it is readily available everywhere and goes on sale from time to time. DO NOT USE royal purple. royal purple used to be the best but as they became bigger they started removing additives that made the oil good and now its no better than mobil one in my opinion, unless you spend the 12 bucks a quart to get their "racing" formula which is just a repackaged version of their original formula. and as far as a filter goes, I would suggest a wix if you change it every time you change your oil, or a K&n or a mobil 1 filter if you don't. the mobil 1 filter was specifically designed to be used with synthetic oils and catches much smaller particles than any other filter I've found.

Boorah
01-07-2012, 12:22 PM
I use GC 0w-30 with a Subaru filter.

Scooby24
01-07-2012, 12:25 PM
Rotella T6 5w40 and Subaru Filter

PASTY T-BAG
01-07-2012, 02:26 PM
Yeah I'm just having chad change it he has amsoil in stock so I'm here already why not....

dukenukem
01-07-2012, 03:22 PM
Amsoil AFL 5W-40 with Subaru or amsoil Ea filter.

Last summer I ran Amsoil 10W40 and it worked well.

stinole
01-07-2012, 03:59 PM
In my Honda, I run Amsoil 5W-30 and a Napa Gold filter. The gold filters are Wix, so they are good.

In my STi, I ran Amsoil 5W-30 and a Purolator Pureone filter.

WRXNFX
01-08-2012, 01:51 AM
Rotella T6 5w40 and Subaru Filter

+1.....

ElScooby
01-08-2012, 05:12 AM
Same here on the Rotella T6 5w40 and Subaru Filter

nrracing
01-08-2012, 11:54 AM
AMSOIL Sig seires, and Amsoil EA filter, Very good products. Check it out.

http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motor-oil-engine-oil?zo=1936352

Blue Meanie
01-08-2012, 04:51 PM
Same here on the Rotella T6 5w40 and Subaru Filter
^^^This^^^

BigC
01-08-2012, 04:57 PM
you'll find that most of the guys on here use amsoil. it is by far one of the best performing oils out there and it's not any more expensive than its competitors. I have done a lot of research on oils (after I blew my first wrx engine I wanted to be sure I did everything I could to not do it again) and I found a lot of disturbing things out about the more well known oils. again amsoil is great I would recommend it to anyone the only reason I don't use it is because It isn't readily available anywhere so you have to buy it in bulk basically. I use Castrol syntec edge titanium. It has 90% the breakdown rate amsoil does throughout the temperature ranges, its the same price, and it is readily available everywhere and goes on sale from time to time. DO NOT USE royal purple. royal purple used to be the best but as they became bigger they started removing additives that made the oil good and now its no better than mobil one in my opinion, unless you spend the 12 bucks a quart to get their "racing" formula which is just a repackaged version of their original formula. and as far as a filter goes, I would suggest a wix if you change it every time you change your oil, or a K&n or a mobil 1 filter if you don't. the mobil 1 filter was specifically designed to be used with synthetic oils and catches much smaller particles than any other filter I've found.

Chris Jones is in Olathe and very easy to get a hold of. Contact info here: http://www.prolubricants.com/ He will sell a quart of Amsoil or a 50 gallon drum.

Back on topic, I run Amsoil in everything listed in my sig plus a lawn mower and power washer, lol.

92tsiawdguy
01-09-2012, 05:04 AM
Amsoil 20w50 with OEM filter.

tyranosaurs-WRX
01-09-2012, 09:21 AM
Chris Jones is in Olathe and very easy to get a hold of. Contact info here: http://www.prolubricants.com/ He will sell a quart of Amsoil or a 50 gallon drum.

Back on topic, I run Amsoil in everything listed in my sig plus a lawn mower and power washer, lol.

I know, but its not like being able to grab an emergency quart or something from any store you walk into. that's all I'm saying. and I again repeat that based on my research the castrol is just as effective through 90% of the temp range amsoil is so that 10% temp range difference isn't worth it to me but I can understand why everyone wants to run amsoil.

stinole
01-09-2012, 09:24 AM
Amsoil 20w50 with OEM filter.


Any reason for running that thick of an oil?

rookrex
01-09-2012, 09:36 AM
Go Rotella. It's stupid cheap and you get great quality oil. Less than $20 at Walmart for a Gallon of the stuff, so you don't always have to plan an oil change and keep tons of some special oil on hand that costs 2x as much.

AWD Bishop
01-09-2012, 10:28 AM
Amsoil

Black Dragon
01-09-2012, 10:38 AM
Royal Purple ..... and a Wix filter


Unsure about the Wix filter, might go to a cheaper model next time.

stinole
01-09-2012, 10:54 AM
Royal Purple ..... and a Wix filter


Unsure about the Wix filter, might go to a cheaper model next time.


FYI, Royal Purple isn't a good oil... at all.

Black Dragon
01-09-2012, 11:09 AM
FYI, Royal Purple isn't a good oil... at all.

I am swapping to a different oil next change, after i Seafoam ... I dont mind the Royal, but it tends to get nasty pretty fast in my motor. been about 3.5K and its coming out at 4K.

I might go to AMS, everything i hear about it has been good.

Might just stick with the Wix filter then... ( a new one that is )

KSwrxWAGON
01-09-2012, 11:38 AM
I think oil brand preference can be a lot like asking someone about their religious beliefs. There's lots of reasons to like brand X or Y and it's always fun to hear why.

I sell Amsoil because I believe it provides the best performance at a great price. Amsoil used to be the most expensive on the block, but you'd be surprised by their newest full synthetic...it's cheap. Modified by KC carries an inventory of Amsoil as well.

For filters and Subarus, WIX/Napa Gold make a nice product. Purolator is also top quality, while K&N is probably over priced but top quality. Amsoil has their own filter that runs in the $10-$14 range that outperform everything I have seen. Since most Subarus on this board change their oil frequently, I would be more concerned about having a quality air filter. Keeping dirt out of the engine will probably prolong the life of your motor more than if you use Mobil1 or Amsoil or Castrol. Oiled filters definitely do NOT provide enough power gains to justify the poor filtration.

If you're car is highly modified and catless, you're going to want something with more zinc and are going to be looking for a Brad Penn, Champion, Amsoil, etc. All of these can be difficult to find and a bit more expensive than Walmart Rotella. I'd rather pay for better performance than worry if my motor is protected at 7000+ rpm, but everyone has their own preference.

stinole
01-09-2012, 11:44 AM
Or if you want extended OCI's, Amsoil is the way to go. I'm going to go 10k in my Civic and send a sample in to see how that goes.

KSwrxWAGON
01-09-2012, 11:55 AM
Or if you want extended OCI's, Amsoil is the way to go. I'm going to go 10k in my Civic and send a sample in to see how that goes.

Which Amsoil product are you using in your Civic (Signature Series, XL, OE, etc.)?

Testing your oil is smart. It's the ONLY way to confirm if the oil is doing a good job. Everyone would be surprised at how long their oil is capable of lasting. Dean Machinery in Kansas City has test kits for $12 and that includes shipping. They test for everything Oil Analyzers (Amsoil's company) at a lower cost. They even do particle counts, which aren't offered as a standard option for other testing companies. Blackstone is a good company but their $20-25 test doesn't include Total Base Number (TBN) tests, which limits your ability to determine if the oil is okay for longer drain intervals.

stinole
01-09-2012, 11:57 AM
Signature 5W-30.

Black Dragon
01-09-2012, 12:51 PM
see i run a 10W30....

stinole
01-09-2012, 12:59 PM
see i run a 10W30....

Good for you. Honda calls for a 5W-30, so I see no need to change.

KSwrxWAGON
01-09-2012, 01:01 PM
Signature 5W-30.
Awesome. 10k should be easy for Signature Series.

see i run a 10W30....
It doesn't matter. 10w-30 is available for most lines of oil where 5w-30 is available. A lot of people use 10w-30 in turbo cars for a little added viscosity (there's a very small difference at operating temperature). Some prefer 40 and 50 weight oil, too. If your vehicle is stock, you are always safe using the viscosity called for on the oil cap or in the manual.

Jagular1785
01-09-2012, 01:18 PM
So out of curiosity, what company does everyone use for their oil testing? I haven't done it before but will be at every oil change from now on.

dukenukem
01-09-2012, 01:57 PM
see i run a 10W30....

Why do you need to run a 10W oil in the winter?

dukenukem
01-09-2012, 01:59 PM
So out of curiosity, what company does everyone use for their oil testing? I haven't done it before but will be at every oil change from now on.

I have used Blackstone many many times. The local shop that was mentioned above has piqued my interest though. I might give them a try this time around.

timsti
01-09-2012, 02:30 PM
I have used Blackstone many many times. The local shop that was mentioned above has piqued my interest though. I might give them a try this time around.

+1 on Blackstone. I will try Dean Machinery next time around.

92tsiawdguy
01-09-2012, 09:18 PM
Any reason for running that thick of an oil?

Because racecar! Because its built. Most race engines use 15w50 or 20w50

stinole
01-09-2012, 09:29 PM
I'm aware. I just think that's a bit thick, especially in winter.

Jagular1785
01-09-2012, 09:51 PM
I'm debating on what I'll be running in mine, being built and all. The machinist told me point blank that a greater viscosity would be a very good idea. Probably going to go 10w40 amsoil after breaking in. Maybe 15w40.

Black Dragon
01-09-2012, 10:21 PM
Why do you need to run a 10W oil in the winter?

Thats what was in the motor when i got it....



It doesn't matter. 10w-30 is available for most lines of oil where 5w-30 is available. A lot of people use 10w-30 in turbo cars for a little added viscosity (there's a very small difference at operating temperature). Some prefer 40 and 50 weight oil, too. If your vehicle is stock, you are always safe using the viscosity called for on the oil cap or in the manual.

Mine is a 6cyl. N/A its also a 1991, I plan to go to AMS, what oil should i use? ( stock is 10W-30) My car see's a lot of hard use, ( i run the crap out of it ) But is well maintained. It is ALWAYS warmed up before driving, never ran cold. I have custom cams and pistons, CAI and a pretty open exhaust.

stinole
01-09-2012, 10:31 PM
Your car is old and probably leaks a lot. I wouldn't run synthetic I don't think...

Black Dragon
01-09-2012, 10:49 PM
Your car is old and probably leaks a lot. I wouldn't run synthetic I don't think...

My car doesn't leak one drop.

92tsiawdguy
01-09-2012, 11:14 PM
I'm aware. I just think that's a bit thick, especially in winter.


My car doesnt come out of the garage in the winter. Under 50* and its in the garage.

Jagular1785
01-09-2012, 11:45 PM
My car doesnt come out of the garage in the winter. Under 50* and its in the garage.

Block heater helps too.

92tsiawdguy
01-09-2012, 11:51 PM
Yea it would. But I have a dd no need to drive the sti other then for pleasure.

Jagular1785
01-09-2012, 11:53 PM
yeah, since I was shorted the plug that goes there I decided to buy one. We'll see how well it works.

tehspettro
01-29-2012, 11:13 AM
I am thinking on changing oil brands, I hear RP's new formula is crap.
I like the idea of rotella as in cheap and easy to find but something inside me feels awkward about putting gas station brand oil in my car. I have contemplated switching to amsoil but I hear its expensive and hard to find ? what should I do? is the rotellla fully synthetic or is it dino oil?

PASTY T-BAG
01-29-2012, 11:54 AM
i use amsoil and i always drive down to MKC to pick it up from chad. hes always got the stuff in stock! just picked up 3 quarts today from my back up!

20sti05
01-29-2012, 12:22 PM
i use amsoil and i always drive down to MKC to pick it up from chad. hes always got the stuff in stock! just picked up 3 quarts today from my back up!

what do you pay for that down there? just curious

fullerswrx
01-29-2012, 01:07 PM
ive used RP for years but apparently from what im reading its crap. lol. Guess i'll change brands next oil change.

tehspettro
01-29-2012, 02:23 PM
ive used RP for years but apparently from what im reading its crap. lol. Guess i'll change brands next oil change.
their old formula was pretty good, but they changed it (new bottle ) and yeah I heard its basically overpriced mobil 1

dukenukem
01-30-2012, 12:08 PM
Amsoil is ok. What you really need is some mad tygt jdm oil, yo!

tehspettro
01-30-2012, 12:17 PM
used to use JDM enos nippon oil but it was like 18$ a quart so ~$100 on oil every change.....no thanks

Scooby24
01-30-2012, 02:34 PM
I am thinking on changing oil brands, I hear RP's new formula is crap.
I like the idea of rotella as in cheap and easy to find but something inside me feels awkward about putting gas station brand oil in my car. I have contemplated switching to amsoil but I hear its expensive and hard to find ? what should I do? is the rotellla fully synthetic or is it dino oil?

Shell isn't just a gas station. Rotella alone doesn't imply synthetic. T6 is fully synthetic and the choice of most of the rotella users. There's no reason to feel awkward about using it and the mass of people using it with positive results reinforces this.

KSwrxWAGON
01-30-2012, 08:32 PM
I am thinking on changing oil brands, I hear RP's new formula is crap.
I like the idea of rotella as in cheap and easy to find but something inside me feels awkward about putting gas station brand oil in my car. I have contemplated switching to amsoil but I hear its expensive and hard to find ? what should I do? is the rotellla fully synthetic or is it dino oil?

Rotella T6 full synthetic is fine at normal drain intervals...so is Mobil1, RP, Castrol, O'Reillys no-name, etc. There's better oil out there, but if you want low price and don't mind oil that starts thick so it can shear down (thin out) over 3-4k miles...Rotella is fine.

If you want the lowest engine wear for the money, I think Amsoil has the market covered. Whether you want a cheap full synthetic (less than $6/quart) or if you want to full race oil that can handle 1,000+ hp without excessive wear, Amsoil has a product cheaper than the equivalent competitive product.

There's several shops that carry Amsoil (MKC is one) and it's easy to find in KC. Obviously, I am an Amsoil marketer and probably appear biased. I'm always happy to answer questions about oil of any brand and hope this message doesn't come across as negative. There's a lot of brands, price points, and opinions. You definitely get what you pay for (super cheap will perform worse than higher priced product). However, the only way you can really know if the oil is doing it's job well is to grab a quick sample and have a lab test it. Otherwise, it's all guesses and indirect perceptions or opinions.

TheArchitect
01-31-2012, 07:54 PM
I switched from Castrol GTX dino juice to Mobil1 (tried a couple different weights) to Rotella T6 5w-40 recently on my 145K mile Legacy GT wagon. Had a lot of oil consumption (1+ qt per 3K miles) until I switched to Rotella, now it seems to have slowed to a very respectable level (about 1/2 qt or so per 3K miles). Had never used Rotella in the past, and bought the wagon with over 130K miles on it, so no idea what its past looked like - no real harm at this point in switching to Rotella to experiment, given that I expect I'll need to replace the engine someday (excuse to do a build). So far, I've been reasonably impressed with the lower oil consumption, and going to do an oil analysis on the next change, but at 145K miles I'm really just hoping to learn what kind of shape things are in and see if I can glean anything about the internal health.

I would be curious, Chris (or anyone else), if you have any thoughts on eco/conserving oils vs. non. Part of the theory on going to Rotella T6 was that it's not conserving, so it doesn't sheer down quickly like Mobil1 for example. I guess the deal with the eco oil is that it sheers down quickly to thin it out a bit and return better fuel economy, but I may have that not quite right. It's hard finding non-eco oil these days, Rotella T6 being one of them, hence my choice. Does Amsoil offer both, or favor one over the other? (Sorry if I missed it in a post earlier in the thread, I was skipping around a bit.)

KSwrxWAGON
02-01-2012, 07:23 AM
If you have a new PCV valve and don't see any oil seeping from the oil pump seals, going with a 40-weight oil will definitely slow oil consumption that is related to larger clearances in an older motor. The biggest downside to heavier oil viscosity is the loss of fuel economy in addition to taking longer to lubricate when really cold.

To compare some common 40-weight diesel oils, I have attached some test results where each oil is subjected to the same high-shear environment and retested for viscosity. This test even adds 2% and 4% fuel to simulate fuel dilution, a common issue with today's diesel motors.
1504
This chart doesn't mean Rotella T 5w-40 is bad. It just shows that you will really want to change it more frequently to maintain the proper viscosity, especially if fuel dilution is an issue.

To answer the other question about eco/conserving oils, Amsoil has a wide range of products and formulations to match any need. Normal, unmodified Subarus usually get a 5w-30 oil and there's three price levels for gasoline engines and one 5w-30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil that are all great. For modified Subarus, adding more zinc to the formula can help keep metal parts from touching under extreme conditions. Amsoil's AMO 10w-40 high zinc formula is popular. For extra viscosity and normal zinc levels (which can be hard on catalytic converters), there's always the 5w-40 european formula or CJ-4 diesel oil or 10w-40 XL...all will work well in a Subaru.

Assuming that nobody is extending their drain intervals due to Subaru recommendations, a great 5w-30 or 10w-30 product is Amsoil OE. MKC always has this in stock for ~$6/quart. It's one of the least expensive full synthetics on the market and works well. If you have high oil consumption, the 10w-40 XL is usually the least expensive option from Amsoil.

Bottom line is that Shell Rotella T6 is priced low and has proven itself to work well enough. To help make a decision on what's best for my engine, I would take an oil sample after 3,000 miles and then do the same with a high quality full synthetic. You'd be comparing wear metals, viscosity, etc. This is really the only way to see if spending a little extra on oil is worth it (extending the life of your motor). Hope this helps.

Scooby24
02-01-2012, 10:50 AM
If you have a new PCV valve and don't see any oil seeping from the oil pump seals, going with a 40-weight oil will definitely slow oil consumption that is related to larger clearances in an older motor. The biggest downside to heavier oil viscosity is the loss of fuel economy in addition to taking longer to lubricate when really cold.

To compare some common 40-weight diesel oils, I have attached some test results where each oil is subjected to the same high-shear environment and retested for viscosity. This test even adds 2% and 4% fuel to simulate fuel dilution, a common issue with today's diesel motors.
1504
This chart doesn't mean Rotella T 5w-40 is bad. It just shows that you will really want to change it more frequently to maintain the proper viscosity, especially if fuel dilution is an issue.

To answer the other question about eco/conserving oils, Amsoil has a wide range of products and formulations to match any need. Normal, unmodified Subarus usually get a 5w-30 oil and there's three price levels for gasoline engines and one 5w-30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil that are all great. For modified Subarus, adding more zinc to the formula can help keep metal parts from touching under extreme conditions. Amsoil's AMO 10w-40 high zinc formula is popular. For extra viscosity and normal zinc levels (which can be hard on catalytic converters), there's always the 5w-40 european formula or CJ-4 diesel oil or 10w-40 XL...all will work well in a Subaru.

Assuming that nobody is extending their drain intervals due to Subaru recommendations, a great 5w-30 or 10w-30 product is Amsoil OE. MKC always has this in stock for ~$6/quart. It's one of the least expensive full synthetics on the market and works well. If you have high oil consumption, the 10w-40 XL is usually the least expensive option from Amsoil.

Bottom line is that Shell Rotella T6 is priced low and has proven itself to work well enough. To help make a decision on what's best for my engine, I would take an oil sample after 3,000 miles and then do the same with a high quality full synthetic. You'd be comparing wear metals, viscosity, etc. This is really the only way to see if spending a little extra on oil is worth it (extending the life of your motor). Hope this helps.



Rotella T 5w-40 =/ Rotella T6 5w-40. T6 has shown very good sheer stability on UOA's. Google Rotella T6 UOA's and look at any of the first ones that pop up.

5000 mile interval on a 4g63. 12.86 cSt which is a 40 weight.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/398638-shell-rotella-t6-5w-40-used-oil-analysis-uoa.html

4500 interval on a 2011, one HPDE event and a tuning session and still at 13.29 cSt which is a 40 weight.

http://www.newenglandsubarus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22540

7000 mile interval on a 05 LGT. Still at 12.89 which is still a 40 weight.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/uoa-05-lgt-87k-miles-rotella-t6-5w-40-7-140791.html

7500 mile interval on an 08 STI. 12.8, getting to the low end of the 40 weight

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/199888-uoa-7626-miles-rotella-t6.html

I'm trying to find these T6 UOA's at 3-4k mile intervals showing significant sheering requiring short intervals....don't see em.

KSwrxWAGON
02-01-2012, 02:57 PM
Rotella T 5w-40 =/ Rotella T6 5w-40. T6 has shown very good sheer stability on UOA's. Google Rotella T6 UOA's and look at any of the first ones that pop up.

The only Rotella 5w-40 I am aware of is T6 5w-40. I'm not trying to sling mud on anyone's favorite oil. The info I provided was from a standard test and agree that everyone should make their decision based on UOA's from their own engine.

Scooby24
02-01-2012, 03:15 PM
http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=080240152&nsize=300

http://www.can-amtalk.com/forums/uploads/monthly_08_2010/post-6898-065094000%201280654660.jpg


Shell Rotella T6 delivers up to 34% better wear performance
compared to the previous API CI-4 PLUS 5W-40 formulation.
In seven out of seven indus t r y - s tandard, diesel -engine wear
test measurements, Shell Rotella T6 outperformed the previous
formulation.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf

A simple google search helps eliminate misinformation, which I feel is important when you wish to make a recommendation on a product that is competition to your own. It helps to eliminate the appearance of product bias.

dukenukem
02-01-2012, 03:21 PM
The last UOA I did for Amsoil AFL 5W-40.

http://upload.offensivex.com/images/2012020114.jpg

Scooby24
02-01-2012, 03:25 PM
Amsoil 5w-40 showing lower viscosity at 5,000 mile interval than RT6's 5w-40 at 7,500 mile interval. Just sayin...

Take people's advice with a grain of salt. UOA is the only way to know for sure.

dukenukem
02-01-2012, 03:42 PM
Just to add more info, the 5000 miles includes a track day.

Also, +1 to what Scooby24 said. Buy whatever oil you want, send a sample for UOA and you will know if your engine likes it or not. What works for my car may or may not work as well for yours. Spend the $20 and know for sure how the oil is working in your specific car and your way of driving.

turbo sol
02-01-2012, 03:43 PM
this might be late to the game, but I've been using Castrol Synthetic 5w30 with a pure one filter.

KSwrxWAGON
02-01-2012, 04:57 PM
A simple google search helps eliminate misinformation, which I feel is important when you wish to make a recommendation on a product that is competition to your own. It helps to eliminate the appearance of product bias.

Interesting. I am looking into the sources of oil for that Amsoil test to see if itís the CJ-4 (T6) Rotella or the older CI-4+. Of course that person isnít in the office, but Iíll post back what I find. If the test wasnít apples to apples (CJ-4 vs. CJ-4), Iíll retract/correct the post and scorn Amsoilís literature group for using such tactics...until then, I have a concrete basis for my comments.

I think you have me confused for a crazy sales guy that spews BS to make sales all day, Greg. I use more than Google for my information and do my best to provide good info without including smoke and mirrors. If I am wrong or misrepresent something accidentally, I will be the first one to stand up and admit it.


Amsoil 5w-40 showing lower viscosity at 5,000 mile interval than RT6's 5w-40 at 7,500 mile interval. Just sayin...

This comment doesnít help anyone decide between oils. You are comparing UOAs from different motors and one is formulated for gasoline motors while the other is for diesel motors. My original point was that Amsoil is very shear stable, not that it has the highest viscosity. I havenít attacked any oil products and wonít. Everyone can agree the synthetic oil market has lots of great products to choose from at many price levels. Thereís always pros and cons to each product and I do not expect this entire forum to harmonize and use one brand of oil.


Take people's advice with a grain of salt. UOA is the only way to know for sure.

Bingo. Oil preferences can be an exciting topic where people like to make accusations and begin insulting each other. Hopefully we can rise above that on this forum.

timsti
02-01-2012, 05:21 PM
this might be late to the game, but I've been using Castrol Synthetic 5w30 with a pure one filter.

+1 here. Thanks for posting the UOA, Mihir. I'll post my next one from using the Castrol for what it's worth although Chris' point about UOA's coming from different motors is a good one. And while I don't want to get into the middle of a my-favorite-oil battle, I respectfully suggest that the Subaru 2.5L motor drinks Mobil 1 faster than I drink beer, which is saying something. That oil performed fine on other cars I've owned, but it just isn't a good match for Subaru so I would suggest that everyone stay away from that one regardless of any other oil A v. oil B battle.
Tim

Scooby24
02-01-2012, 05:53 PM
Interesting. I am looking into the sources of oil for that Amsoil test to see if it’s the CJ-4 (T6) Rotella or the older CI-4+. Of course that person isn’t in the office, but I’ll post back what I find. If the test wasn’t apples to apples (CJ-4 vs. CJ-4), I’ll retract/correct the post and scorn Amsoil’s literature group for using such tactics...until then, I have a concrete basis for my comments.

T6 wasn't announced until Late September 2009. Prior to that, Rotella T was the common formula, and given the test's date of November 2009 and Rotella T being the name of the oil tested, I think it's safe to assume they were using the prior formula for the test and not the then brand new T6 formula. It would have been in their best interest to have labelled it as T6 to show Amsoil's superiority to even the latest and greatest formulation.

In my opinion, it's pretty cut and dry.



I think you have me confused for a crazy sales guy that spews BS to make sales all day, Greg. I use more than Google for my information and do my best to provide good info without including smoke and mirrors. If I am wrong or misrepresent something accidentally, I will be the first one to stand up and admit it.

Not at all. What I see is someone making recommendations (short intervals) and giving properties of a product (inferior sheer stability) that is based on information from a prior formula (Rotella T) and not the current formula that is popular (Rotella T6).

I'm correcting the misinformation. If I may offer my own unsolicited advice, I'd consider it best practice to not offer advice on how to use a competitor's product unless you have your ducks in a row and are certain the information you're providing is accurate and not done in a manner that transitions into a sales pitch for your own offering.


This comment doesn’t help anyone decide between oils. You are comparing UOAs from different motors and one is formulated for gasoline motors while the other is for diesel motors. My original point was that Amsoil is very shear stable, not that it has the highest viscosity. I haven’t attacked any oil products and won’t. Everyone can agree the synthetic oil market has lots of great products to choose from at many price levels. There’s always pros and cons to each product and I do not expect this entire forum to harmonize and use one brand of oil.

It's not irrefutable proof, but it is certainly compelling evidence in complete contradiction to the information previously provided. In 5000 miles, a 5w-40 oil that was described to be highly shear stable shows a viscosity of a 30 weight. If the graph you originally posted is accurate, that would indicate a significant loss in viscosity. At the same time, an oil that was described as having worse shear stability and required shorter intervals showed higher viscosity on all of the 4 UOA's available in a quick google search.

While you didn't attack any oil, providing incorrect information about an oil (whether intentional or not) could portray it in a negative way to those that don't have the correct information.

Frankly, I don't understand how one oil formulated for gasoline engines vs. diesel makes a difference. The statements made were that one has inferior shear stability and required shorter intervals (3-4k miles). Gasoline vs. Diesel formula has no weight on those statements. If your original point was that Amsoil was very shear stable, you should have left it at that.


Bingo. Oil preferences can be an exciting topic where people like to make accusations and begin insulting each other. Hopefully we can rise above that on this forum.

I don't see any accusations being made or insults being handed out. I saw false information and I wanted to make sure and correct that false information.

Blackness
02-02-2012, 12:54 AM
There was a tractor show in Nebraska a while ago and they had a Shell stand. They were promoting the T6 and had some engineers and guys from corporate there. I spoke with them for a couple hours and that stuff is legit. I can't remember the details but thats the only oil thats going on my WRX.

imprezasti305
03-09-2012, 01:19 AM
I typically use whichever synthetic is on sale at my local AA. I haven't done much research on oil, but I tend to feel that any mainstream synthetic is probably sufficient for regular change intervals.

Kilby33
03-25-2012, 09:26 PM
I have used Mobil 1 5w-30 since I have owned my STi Jan 2008. I have been adding oil here lately, I have been thinking about switching to Rotella T6 5w40. So I think next oil change thats whats going in:)