PDA

View Full Version : FS: 1993 urS4 Sedan in STL, MO (Black w/Tan Interior)



aksc
01-29-2013, 06:56 AM
***********************UPDATE********************* *******

The car is still for sale! First $2600 cash takes it! I need this car gone.

************************************************** ********

Up for sale is my 1993 Audi urS4. This car has been my daily driver for almost a year and has never let me down. I am the third owner. The car started life as a company vehicle, racking up an insane amount of highway mileage with one man behind the wheel, around the early 2000’s, the owner let his son drive the car, and in 2010 the S4 was sold to a friend of mine. He drove it very little.

235,000 miles on the clock. The odometer broke, was repaired, and broke again several months ago. I have an entire gauge cluster out of an Audi 200 to use to swap the odometer, but haven’t bothered yet. This car is overall a very solid survivor, but is far from perfect. I will do my best to describe her as well as I can. Feel free to ask me for more details or for specific photos. I will post more photos when I have a chance to clean the car up (it has been below freezing here for weeks.)

Exterior:
Paint is in better shape than you would expect, clear coat is in good shape. The car waxes up quite nicely, but is not without scratches. I was in a minor front-end collision last year and have swapped to an Audi 100 hood and front bumper. They are forest green, I have not had a chance to get them painted. Those familiar with the C4 chassis will notice that the bumper lacks the continuation of the front fender flares. I saved the old hood (one small crinkle) and front bumper (cracked beyond use) so it would be possible to graft the bumper flares onto the current bumper given time and effort. Lower rubber trim is missing from the two front doors. I have brand new pieces, but have not had time to install them.
Wheels are the stock 16x8 Fuchs, they were refinished two years ago and are in great shape save a couple of rock chips on the rears. The lips polish nicely for someone who cares about polished lips. I do not, nor will I ever. The tires are BRAND NEW (mounted and balanced last week) Hankook Ventus V4 ES all season tires.
The windshield washer tank/pump are currently out of the car so that I can patch a hole in the tank. The lines for the headlight washers leak profusely, so they are no longer hooked up/functional.
Headlights are the Canadian C4 E-codes, they have the extra parking light and also have motorized height adjusters. They work, but I have not wired up the adjuster motors. The car also has clear front corners. Both headlights and corners are not easy to come by these days.
The car is de-badged, but I have both S4 badges saved, they are in excellent shape!

Interior:
As I mentioned earlier, this car was a company vehicle for nearly ten years, the interior wear shows it. The driver seat, while the most comfortable car seat I’ve had the pleasure of road-tripping in, is a bit worse for wear, both outside bolsters have torn. This is easily the worst part of the interior, the rest, while old, has actually survived quite well. All of the seat heaters work (front and rear seats) except for the driver seat. I suspect that a day with the seat out and you could have the bolster and heater repaired no problem. Again, I have not had time to do this.
Carbon fiber trim is present, but the resin is beginning to crack.
I recently replaced the head unit and all four speakers with a modest setup from Crutchfield. The JVC head unit has both front and rear AUX and USB inputs. I keep an old iPod in the glovebox and cycle through tunes no problem. While the sound isn’t the best system in the world (you can’t crank it up too far without hearing some distortion) it is lightyears ahead of the Bose system the car came with.
The heat gets HOT and the AC actually works. I retrofitted the R12 system to R134a last year, it holds a charge and gets pretty cold. The only issue with the HVAC system is that the backlight on the right side display is out. Rebuild kits are available (as this is a GM unit) but I haven’t had time to take it apart.
The headliner was recently refinished by yours truly in a superb cream and red plaid. The lighter tones match the color of the interior. It really adds some character to the old girl without being too over the top. The old headliner sagged, so I figured I’d do something fun.
The sunroof is completely functional and recently lubricated. The rear window and side view mirror defrosters are all 100% functional. The built in carphone even works, but of course no longer makes calls. All stock floor mats are present and in respectable shape. The leather has started to separate from the door cards, but is repairable.
All lights work properly, although for some reason the AutoCheck system STILL thinks there’s a light out somewhere. If there is, I can’t find it. AutoCheck will beep when it’s cold outside to tell you it thinks there’s a light out. I want to disable the beep, but have grown to ignore it.

Engine:
AAN 20v Turbo. Well, I don’t have to tell you anything about the splendor of this engine. It’s what makes the car. The sound, while muffled by stock exhaust, is still heartwarming. For 235k miles, it’s in surprisingly good shape. Compression is good (checked it last year) and everything is basically stock except for some Stage 1+ ECU and a Forge diverter valve. I replaced all boost hoses, injectors, fuel rail, coils, MAF, and side mount intercooler with low-mileage take-offs from a 60k AAN. I also have the turbo from that car, but have not had time to change it. The engine uses oil and coolant slowly, but not fast enough to warrant concern. It’s something I keep an eye on, but I rarely have to add a bunch of either.
I recently had to replace the Cam Position Sensor. Those of you familiar with the AAN will know that this sensor will prevent the car from starting, but not running. You’ll also know that this stupid sensor is expensive. So rest assured it is fresh. I had planned on replacing the timing belt and idler pulley, but after close inspection, they are both in wonderful shape, as the first owner had them replaced just before he sold the car in 2010.
During hot days, or when the engine has been driven and sits idling for a long period of time, the oil pump runs a bit too low, causing the oil light to come on. The gauge reads just below 2BAR of pressure, so I usually blip the throttle a bit to clear the warning.
The car also has an overboost issue sometimes that I have tried and failed to solve. The only noticeable result is a fuel cut over 5500RPM. I do not drive the car hard enough for this to be an issue, but it is still something that should be addressed.Online resources (SJM Autotechnik) claim that overboosting is caused by either a boost leak or a bad MAF. I have replaced boost hoses and the MAF, as well as checked for leaks, but haven’t found anything conclusive.
The engine sees regular oil changes, coolant has been flushed, thermostat recently replaced, and is not abused or over-revved. It idles perfectly and pulls clean.

Drivetrain:
Transmission and rear differential fluid were replaced earlier in January. The transmission shifts like a dream and has no issues. The rear differential locks perfectly, I have disabled the 15MPH unlock so that I could drive in snow with the rear end locked. Who wouldn’t? The rear end leaks a bit out of the fill cap. I tried twice to seal it but it’s possible that the threads are a bit knackered. It didn’t help that I overfilled the diff slightly, so the car had no problem slowly emptying it back out to the proper level.
All CVs, boots, bearings, and rods are in good shape. No clunking or grinding. I have two new outer tie rod ends to install, since the boots have cracked, but have not had time to change them. The car tracks properly and doesn’t wear tires unevenly, but the wheel is slightly off center by maybe two or three degrees. Recently the car has developed a power steering leak that I have not had time to trace. It is manageable and slow, but still noticeable. I’ve only had to add mineral oil once, so it’s not that crucial. The rack has been replaced by the previous owner and looks to have been reinforced on the driver side (where the mounts are notoriously weak.)
Clutch grabs high on the pedal, but has never slipped or smelled. First owner had it replaced years ago, but I have no reason to think it should need to be replaced any time soon.

Suspension & Brakes:
Car is on H&R sport springs with Bilstein HD inserts. This is the ideal setup for the car and is not overly stiff. I have noticed that the front dampers don’t seem to perform whenever the car has been parked in below freezing temperatures overnight. A few minutes driving and they are back to normal.
Brakes are stock and have been bled recently. Pads are new all around. I have new e-brake cables but haven’t installed them yet. The e-brake works pretty well, but will not hold on super-steep hills. This is to be somewhat expected.
I have disabled the ABS system due to a fault in the pump that caused me to get in the small front end collision I described earlier. The pump’s valves failed internally, locking out the use of the pedal. Scary. I disabled the pump last year and have not had issues since. As a result, the cruise control doesn’t work. Used pumps are around $100, but since I hate ABS and have never used cruise control, I haven’t bothered.
The brake “bomb”/pressure accumulator has been replaced recently and is functional. I bled the hydraulic system and brakes at the same time. Pedal feel is a bit soft for my taste, but I have driven other urS cars and they feel similar.

- - - Updated - - -

Pictures can be seen here:


http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5941510
Post this for a friend BTW.